Knots, or the violence of desire in Renaissance Florence

Author:

Lugli, Emanuele

Format:

Book

Language:

English

Imprint:

Chicago, IL : The University of Chicago Press, 2023 and ©2023

Subject:

Hair in art
Art, Renaissance - Italy - Florence
Hair - Religious aspects
Hair - Social aspects
Florence (Italy) - History - 1421-1737

ISBN:

9780226822518 and 0226822516

Description:

312 pages, 16 unnumbered pages of plates : illustrations (some color), maps ; 23 cm

Bibliographic Note:

Includes bibliographical references and index

Contents:

Prologue: Hair Care -- Learning to See Thinness -- Desiccated Smoke -- Tie Me Down, Burn Me Up -- Superfluities -- Achonciare -- Never Just Itself -- Raking the Skin -- On the Politics of a Comb -- Split Ends: A Conclusion

Summary:

""This book is about hair," writes Emanuele Lugli in the first sentence of this innovative cultural history of hair as seen through the lens of Lorenzo il Magnifico's Florence. Lugli reflects on the ways writers and artists naturalized religious prejudices, circumscribed social practices, and propagated gender and class subjugation through alluring works of art, in medical and political writings, and in poetry. What, he asks, may've compelled Sandro Botticelli, for example, or the young Leonardo da Vinci and dozens of their contemporaries to obsess about hair? Why take such care in depicting the braids, knots, and textures in their portraits of women specifically? Lugli dives deeply into the cultural production of notions about hair in this period of Florentine history, the way artists, poets, natural philosophers, doctors, politicians, and theologians thought about it, and how they depicted it in their art and writings. From this varied archive, Lugli gathers rewarding insights from practices and beliefs across the disciplines and genres at a crucial time when Renaissance humanists were attempting to define what it meant to live-and be-human. Lugli recuperates overlooked perceptions of hair at the very moment when hair came to be identified as a potential vector for liberating culture, and he corrects a centuries-old prejudice that sees hair as a trivial subject, as a mere female occupation kept on the margins of relevance, relegated to passing fashion or the decorative. As Lugli shows, such oversight is anachronistic, a product of modern biases, and he corrects this by elucidating hundreds of fifteenth-century sources that engage with hair as a fundamental element in the definition of genders, morals, and the laws of nature, and the exercise of power. It is a book that will surprise and delight a wide audience of scholars and anyone interested in the hidden, systemic, creative power that relied on something as unsuspected as hair to coerce people into thinking and behaving according to a code of conduct"-- Provided by publisher and "An interdisciplinary study of hair through the art, philosophy, and science of fifteenth-century Florence. In this innovative cultural history, hair is the portal through which Emanuele Lugli accesses the cultural production of Lorenzo il Magnifico's Florence. Lugli reflects on the ways writers, doctors, and artists expressed religious prejudices, health beliefs, and gender and class subjugation through alluring works of art, in medical and political writings, and in poetry. He considers what may have compelled Sandro Botticelli, the young Leonardo da Vinci, and dozens of their contemporaries to obsess over braids, knots, and hairdos by examining their engagement with scientific, philosophical, and theological practices. By studying hundreds of fifteenth-century documents that engage with hair, Lugli foregrounds hair's association to death and gathers insights about human life at a time when Renaissance thinkers redefined what it meant to be human and to be alive. Lugli uncovers overlooked perceptions of hair when it came to be identified as a potential vector for liberating culture, and he corrects a centuries-old prejudice that sees hair as a trivial subject, relegated to passing fashion or the decorative. He shows hair, instead, to be at the heart of Florentine culture, whose inherent violence Lugli reveals by prompting questions about the entanglement of politics and desire. "-- Provided by publisher

Collection:

BGC Monograph Stacks

Call Number:

N8217.H27 L84 2023

Available

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